free counters
  • 大大小小形形色色清真寺,我这非穆斯林没去过一百也转了八十座了。

  •       

         

          

    点击图片或标题,文章会在另开的窗口里显示

  • [本日志已设置加密]
  • [本日志已设置加密]
  • 他说先搭车到西藏,然后翻雪山走路到尼泊尔,山里足足走了七十二天

  • 也许,这默守佛前四十二年就是信仰的本身吧。

  • 健康就是财富,内心的宁静就是幸福,瑜珈指引了通向彼岸的路径

  • 野花山谷

    日期:2006-08-14 | 分类:旅行 (Traveling) | Tags:色彩印度(India-Color)

    走进喜马拉雅山中

     

    沿着恒河到

     

    巨松下,那个朝圣者静静地坐在树干上,脸微微扬起,微笑着雨纷纷扬扬打在他扬起的脸上,微笑着,看见我,远远地

    'vahe guru'

     

     

    众神之湖锡克圣地

     

    汉姆库德(HEMKUND)罗克帕湖(LOKPAL)湖水刺骨,山风袭来,早已半湿的我瑟瑟发抖,烤火。

     

    12个小时啊,上上下下,锡克圣花,学名苞叶雪莲(BRAHMA KAMAL),梵语意为梵天的莲花,只生长在海拔3800米以上的花,怕是真的接近天堂了。我小心翼翼拨开巨大的苞片,深紫色的花,相拥成簇,一只肥胖的蜂花蕊间,浓郁的药香,醉了我,也醉了寻蜜的蜂。

     

    Known as the "Sanctum Santorum" of India, this is the area in which, since times immemorial, the great religious teachers and sages have retreated to seek communion with the Great Unknown in an effort to wrest the secrets of enternal life and uplift of the soul of man. Here, 976 metres above, the VAlley of jFlowers, at a height of (15,200 ft) on the shores of Hemkund Lokpal, sheltered by seven snow-clad peaks of gigantic mounts, Hemkund Parvat, came the last of the Sikh Gurus, Gobind Singh to meditate and seek peace for his tortured soul. This lake is a great pilgrimage place for the Sikhs. In the Guru Granth Sahib, Guru Govind Singh made a reference--that in one of his previous births he had mediteated on the shorts of a lake which was surrounded by seven snow-covered peaks. In 1930, Havildar jSohan Singh discovered this lake, and identified it with the one referred to the in the Guru Granth sahib.

     

    第十代师尊高温德辛格(GOVIND SINGH,1666-1708)进行了重大改革:废除师尊制度、完善英雄精神和为维护尊严而献身的教育、全面军事化并组建一支强大的锡克军队、规定锡克成年男子外貌标志5K化,以及在男信徒的名字后面加上了辛格(SINGH,意为狮子),女教徒的名字后面加上了考尔(KAUR,意为公主)

    野花山谷

     

    在一片岩石的缝隙中,我发现了著名的喜马拉雅蓝罂粟,这大概是这年的最后一朵吧,有着天空和落日的颜色

    报春花、凤仙花、金莲花、银莲花、沼泽金盏草、天竺葵委陵菜、柳叶菜、点地梅、水杨梅、草莓、山莓草、虎耳草、风铃草、鸢尾草、百合、毛莨、紫堇、紫莞、拳参、党参、玄参、橐吾、香青、黄华、土木香、刺续断、龙爪兰、兜兰、兰花、罂粟、杜鹃、大黄、乌头……

    离开的,街边的小铺,明信片, 原来外面陈列的并不是明信片而是他拍的照片,他告诉我几乎每天他都要去野花山谷走一圈,每年从雪融到雪落。他说经他的手已经拍下了五百多种野花,可是,我找到的所有资料上都说是三百多种啊,他看出了我的疑问,非常自信地说:是五百多种,相信我!,我相信他,因为仅仅两天,我的数码相机里便有了95种野花。

     

    从早上6点到晚上8点, 14个小时里

     

    两周前, 我正在加拿大北部的拉布拉多城出差,在这片森林绵延, 湖泊纵横的地方,正是一年最好的时光,野花烂漫,柳兰粉紫色的花序直铺到天边, 一道彩虹横架湖岸,我突然意识到,两年前的同一天,我真在在地球的另一面,野花山谷里徒步,野花正在静静开放。

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Butterfly, Musk deer, Blue sheep ( Bharal ), Himalayan bear, Himalayan mouse hare and some Himalayan birds & Snow leopard are als

     

    like that of Ramayana and Mahabharat.But due to its near inaccessible approach it had disappeared from the tourists map until in 1931 when Franksmith a British mountaineer having lost his way while returning from ssuccessful expeditionto mt. Kamat, reached this valley which was full of flowers.He was overwhelmed by its enchanting beauty and named it as “ Valley of Flowers".
    The valley of Flowers National Park starts from Ghangharia but the main valley starts after crossing the gorge and the stream starting from nar Parvat, 3 Kms. Away from the Ghangharia. In the front of the Valley stands and snowclad peak of Ratban Parvat and at the block is the kunt Khal, towards the left is Nar Parvat which separates the Badrinath valley from this valley and in the right hill is the dense Birch forest.

     

    The Valley got publicised as the Valley of Flowers when Frank S, Smith - mountaineer, explorer, botanist camped here for several weeks in the monsoon of 1937 and wrote a book, The Valley of Flowers.

     

    Because of the solitude, the Valley was used by sadhus during prolonged periods of meditation. The Valley has been associated with Lakshman, who is believed to have meditated on the banks of Hemkund. The 'Sanjeevani Buti', which revived him when he was wounded in battle with Meghnad, son of Ravana, is said to have been from here

     

    The Valley of Flowers National Park is above Ghangria in the upper reaches of the Bhyundar Ganga in the Zaskar Range of the Garhwal Himalaya, Chamoli District. Bounded by high mountain ridges and peaks on all sides, 8,950 ha of land were declared a national park with effect from September 1982.It is a 5 km trek from Ghangria, which is 13 kms from the roadhead at Govindghat, between Joshimath and Badrinath.

    :00am and I was on my way to a 13 km trek to Gangharia or Gobinddham and was open to all options ahead. Slowly treading through Bhunder village the body took time to switchover from ride to trek. An elderly person took pity and offered glucose and dry fruits.

    Quickly recovering from the initial change over, with body and mind now fully attuned, I enjoyed the steady pace. Finally made it to Gangharia at 12.30 pm. I had some very interesting conversation on way with many.

    A seasoned trekker mentioned not to head for Bhuyinder/Valley of flowers in the afternoon for the best time to be there is at dawn. Trip to Hemkund was not advisable as Darbar Sahib closes at 2.30 pm and weather becomes unpredictable in the afternoons. The 6 km trek normally takes anywhere between 3-6 hours. Many advised me to rest for the day.

    Catch 22 situation I was in. Finally the illogical heart won over the logical mind. Throwing caution to winds, I was on way to Hemkund at 1.30 pm.

    Beyond doubt this final leg is one of the steepest trek I have ever done. From 10,008 feet at Gangharia, the trek ascends to 14,500 feet in 6 km with altitude and cold eating up the energy. Hovering clouds can discharge their load anytime.

    In my hurry forgot to pick up my jacket and cap from Gangharia and it was too late to do anything. A Nepali porter offered me one of his jackets out of courtesy. Except an occasional drizzle the jacket had never seen any detergent or wash since its inception. But for me it was a lifesaver which I gladly grabbed. How and where do I return it? His answer was simple 'array sahab jub ak chahey paheno, aur kissi kay pass chor do for porter 273, mujay mil jaegi'. He even treated me with his rotis and hot tea and flatly refused any monetary return. I know that kind soul earns not more than 20 rupees a day and has a family to support. Feeling embarrassed I did not know how to reciprocate. I had met a similar lion-hearted kandi carrier at Gangharia.

    Just meeting and being in company of such lovely and simple people "my pilgrimage was over”. The last stretch of about 1 km to Hemkund was spellbinding. The pure white clouds drifted down below fully contended. With overpowering sentinels (Himalayas) lazily watching them. The next turn and I stood face to face with the most revered 'Brahm Kamal' and the rare Himalayan Blue poppy. Exotic colored flowers bloomed all over and their fragrance roamed all over.

    Getting blessed again and again I just sat bewildered. Finally made it to Hemkund Sahib and Lokpal Lake. The gurudwara had already closed for the day.

    It's an important pilgrimage for both Hindus and Sikhs. Encircled by seven snow clad peaks and their associated glaciers, the lake reflects its surroundings enchantingly on its crystal clear serene waters. Glaciers from Hathi parvat and Saptrishi peaks feed the lake and a small stream called Himganga flows out of this.

    As alluded to, in the holy Granth Sahib, Guru Govind Singh, the tenth Guru of the Sikh faith had meditated on the banks of this lake in one of his earlier births. Hindus believe that Lakshman meditated by the lake and regained his health after being wounded by Meghnath during battle. Despite its ancient connections, Hemkund/Lokpal was discovered by Havaldar Solan Singh in 1930.

    The sevadars at the Gurudwara treated me with a most delicious langar 'kichri' and hot tea and I ate voraciously. Thereafter I had trouble walking with a stomach full. Tiredness had also set in with muscles getting hard. Sensibly I opted for a pony and was at Gangharia evening tired to the bone for I had trekked 19 km carrying about 10 kg on my bag like a kachhar. Someone kindly sent for a massager and I thoroughly enjoyed the relaxation followed by a hot bath.

    Quickly recovering went for my favourite pastime – lonely walks in the jungles in absolute darkness. Safe or risky I don't know and nothing heroic about it for I am accustomed to it. Finally hit the sack past midnight to wake up at 5 am next day.

     

     

    "Look before you tread" - valley of flowers

    A quick trek of 100 metres enjoying the early morning chill and I was at the entrance gate troubling the sleeping gatekeeper. Enjoyed the warmth at the fire log in his quarters with a tea and biscuits. Locally the valley has been known for centuries with its own myths surrounding it.

    Adjectives are pointless and redundant describing this area decorated with multitude of flowers. So instead of extolling the beauty and stupendous array of wild flowers growing here, a simple description and legend will do good.

    The locals say that the Valley is inhabited by fairies who carry off anyone who ventures too far into their domain; and that there bloom, in the valley, flowers with a fragrance so potent that it can make you faint. I can vouch for this at least. Another story would have you believe that this valley- known in Hindu mythology as `Nandankanan'- was created when the gods showered flowers down on earth. While Hindus say these celestial flowers were showered on Laxman, Sikhs say it to have been showered by gods on Guru Gobind Singh. I can go on and on endlessly.

    I do wish to share some of the nightmare views and feelings of many visitors I met in the valley. I would attribute this to "phenomene papillon".

    A group quietly followed me everywhere and was amused at my excitement. One of them found the trek most treacherous; other mentioned it to be infested with dangerous animals. Maybe the illusion played havoc with their senses. The worst was 'Yaar this place is no match to gardens in our city which are well laid out and maintained. My plight was unimaginable and I felt like banging the entire Himalayan range on my head.

    A young group having spent a fortune reaching this place was thoroughly disillusioned and opted to retreat just after 2 kms with silly excuses. An assorted group vanished quickly after the first milestone for their cabbie was waiting at the base.

    Another group of professionals started a debate with me on God and its creation. How this topic came up I don't know. This place is not a symposium and I had to tell them bluntly to go away. Another intruder and I decided to retreat now for I had covered almost 7 km. Picking up my rucksack I started the descent covering the 13 km in about 4 hrs. Quickly switching over to the Rider mode, headed straight for Karnaprayag.

     

    The high altitude Lokpal lake, known as Hemkund ( 4329 mts.) lies in heavenly environs. A steep trek from Ghangharia leads one to this spot in about four to six hours. 

    It is an important pilgrimage for both Hindus and Sikhs, as well as for people from other faiths. There is a Sikh Gurudwara and a Lakshman temple built on the bank of the lake. 

    Encircled by seven snow clad peaks and their associated glaciers, it reflects its surroundings enchantingly on its crystal clear serene waters. The glaciers from Hathi Parvat and Saptrishi peaks feed the lake and a small stream called Himganga flows out of this lake. 

    As alluded to, in the holy Granth Sahib, Guru Govind Singh, the tenth Guru of the Sikh faith had meditated on the bank of this lake in one of his earlier births. It is widely believed among Sikhs that Guru Govind Singh introduced the features now universally associated with Sikhism. On 15th April 1699, he started the new brotherhood called the Khalsa (meaning the pure, from the Persian word 'Khales') an inner core of the faithful, accepted by baptism (amrit). 

    The five K's' date from this period: kesh (uncut hair) kangha (comb), kirpan (dagger or short sword), kara (steel bangle), and kachh (boxer shorts). The most important is the uncut hair, adopted before the other four. The comb is sometime designated specially as wooden. The dagger and the shorts reflect military influence, while the bangle may be a from of charm. 

    It is believed that Lakshman, the younger brother of Ram, meditated by the lake and regained his health after being severely wounded by Meghnath, son of the demon Ravana, during battle. 

    Despite its ancient connections, Hemkund/Lokpal was discovered by a Sikh Havaldar, Solan Singh and became a major pilgrimage centre only after 1930. 

     

     

    野花山谷国家公园旅行攻略

     

    * 最佳旅行季节:每年的6月雪化,各种野花次第开放,盛花期是7月中旬到8月中旬,9月,伴随着雨季结束,花期也快结束,10月以后大雪封山,冈伽瑞亚的饭店旅社全部关门。

     

    * 交通及费用:

    德里(DEHLI--里希克锡(RISHIKESH):224公里,巴士,全程约8小时,票价130卢比;火车,每天一班火车,二等卧铺票价约146卢比。

     

    里希克锡- -约希玛特(JOSHIMATH,海拔1875米):253公里,每天早上330-900均有巴士,间隔半小时到一小时,但如果乘600以后的巴士,就必须在路上住一天,当地警察局规定,天黑后不能行车,一方面是因为路险,另一方面也因为这条路是通往印中边界的军用公路。全程约13小时,票价182卢比。

     

    约希玛特--高温德伽特(GOVIND GHAT,海拔1828米):20公里,全天都有经过的巴士,如果想当天赶到的话,最好中午前出发。

     

    高温德伽特--冈伽瑞亚(GHANGRIA,海拔3048米):13公里山路,一路上坡,只能徒步或骑马。一般体力的人需4-6个小时才能走完,也可以节省体力租马骑, 费用在单程350卢比左右,但对于不惯骑马的人来说,几个小时颠簸下来,也是相当费力的。

     

    冈伽瑞亚--汉姆贡德(HEMKUND,海拔4329米):6公里,海拔上升1200米,坡度相当大。徒步来回约8-12小时,也有马道供骑马上山。建议徒步,一路美景足够抵消辛苦。

     

    冈伽瑞亚--野花山谷国家公园入口(海拔3658米):3公里,门票350卢比,三天有效。 山谷本身长约8公里,坡度平缓,但过塌方处要非常小心。

     

    在里希克锡也有旅行社组团去野花山谷,这样可以避免自己安排交通和住宿的麻烦,向位于市中心的邦政府旅游中心咨询看当时是否有团出发。

     

    *  注意事项:7月和8月正值喜马拉雅山南坡的雨季,塌方频繁,路一断可能就是几天, 安排旅行计划时,一定要留出充裕的时间,另外,要多带几件一次性雨衣;要在里希克锡换好足够的现金,一路上没有地方换钱也不能使用信用卡;最好将大件行李寄存在里希克锡,轻装上阵;带足高热量食品,沿途除了奶茶和饮料外,食品的选择很少;山间昼夜温差大,要带保暖的衣服;徒步时,要使用登山杖,至少也要用根木杖,可以节省很多体力;7月和8月也是印度教徒和锡克教徒朝圣的季节,一路上住宿会比较紧张,如果可能,最好提前预定,此外,冈伽瑞亚的住宿卫生条件较差,最好带一个薄型睡袋,不必带帐篷,冈伽瑞亚没有什么地方供扎营,而野花山谷里不允许宿营。

    * 野花山谷国家公元中主要野花中文拉丁文对照:

    报春花(PRINULA)、凤仙花(IMPATIENS)、金莲花(TROLLIUS)、银莲花(ANEMONE)、沼泽金盏草(MARSH MARIGOLD)、天竺葵(GERAIUM),委陵菜(POTENTILLA)、柳叶菜(EPILOBIUM)、点地梅(ANDROSACE)、水杨梅(GEUM)、草莓(STRAWBERRY)、山莓草(SIBBALDIA)、虎耳草(SAXIFRAGES)、风铃草(CAMPANULA)、鸢尾草(ARISAEMA)、百合(LILIUM)、毛莨(RANUNCULUS)、紫堇(CORYDALIS)、紫莞(ASTER)、拳参(BISTORTA)、党参(CODONOPSIS)、玄参(PEDICULARIS)、橐吾(LIGULARIA)、香青(ANAPHALIS)、黄华(THERMO-PSIS)、土木香(INULA)、刺续断(MORINA)、龙爪兰(DACTYLORHIZA)、兜兰(CYPRIPEDIUM)、兰花(ORCHID)、罂粟(POPPY)、杜鹃(RHODODENDRONS)、大黄(RHUBARB)、乌头(ACONITE)。

  • 最后,以圣池为中心,在尘土和喧嚣中生长出整整一座城市来。圣池叫做花蜜池塘(AMRIT SAROVAR),圣殿称为金庙(GODEN TEMPLE),而包围着圣池圣殿的城市则取了圣池的同名--阿姆利则(AMRITSAR)。

  • 印度: 阿姆利则旅行小贴士

  • 真正的幸福是在内里的--真正的幸福是品尝到内心和平、智慧和精神之爱的蜜露

  • 那个名叫大吉岭的清凉世界,此刻早己隐藏在天边的白云深处,虽然只有三个半小时的车程°却似缥渺的仙山可望而不可及。

     

  • 我是幸运的,四年前第一次去印度旅行时,就遇见了约翰--正在进行他的第十次印度之旅的澳大利亚人,因了他的告诫,我放慢了脚步,学会用心而不是眼去体验那个古老的国度

  •    

    在这海角上,面对着三水汇合艳美绝伦的大海,我写下这些文字。这里没有航船可以停泊的港口,因而环绕的海水纯洁似女神。